Nullarbor Trip April 2003

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Participants from ISS

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 Alison Scobie

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 Walter Waerner

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 Andrew Scobie

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Bob Kershaw, Trip Leader

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 Caitlyn Scobie

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Max Hall - Councillor David Hall of the Dundas Shire Council

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 Clark Scobie

 

‘Click’ on the photos below to enlarge them. ‘Click’ on underlines phrases to take you photographs from

Alison’s folder of photos.

Visitors 

James Ferguson, Owner Balladonia Homestead and property

Kristy Pozniac, working “holidayer” from Canada

 

Firstly, Thanks to Max Hall for organising the permit for us to search and cave in South Australia and for organising the areas to search for new caves.

 

A question first - How do you keep six adults from going batty for three weeks? Take along a chirpy, inquisitive 2 ½ year old young lady of course!

 

30th March

Bob left home at 7.00am to collect Clark Scobie and then headed to the remaining Scobie residence and we departed Figtree at 7.30 a.m. for the 3rd biennial pilgrimage to the Nullarbor and to celebrate the 40th Anniversary of the Illawarra Speleological Society Inc.

We had a good run south west, carrying all our food stocks except the fresh fruit, vegies and water and arrived at Hay about 5.30pm. Where upon we set up camp met up with Walter and enjoyed a counter meal at the local pub.

Unfortunately, we were all “truck shocked” the next morning from the continual movement of interstate trucks as they passed the caravan park during the evening, every 10 minutes or so it seemed.

Next time a better place must be found to spend the first night out.

 

31st March

We were up at the crack of sunrise (6.00am) or should I say Caitlyn cackling time and after packing up, we headed for the Hay Bakery for some much needed fresh bread or cakes for morning tea. We arrived at Renmark for lunch beside the Murray River near the Tourist information centre and watched the house boats moseying on upstream in the quiet and sunny conditions. We arrived at Spalding about 5pm for an ice-cream and break before arriving at Port Augusta at 7.30pm. Andrew laid on a quick meal which commenced his cooking duties for the trip. Bed at 9.30pm.

 

1st April

We left Port Augusta at 10:00 a.m. after a sleep in and shopping for fruit, vegies and last minute beer and port supplies. We had lunch at the Lions Park at Kimba at 12.30 and arrived at Ceduna at 4.30pm. This time we stayed at a quite caravan park - Shelleys by the beach and adjacent to the racecourse. Andrew again cooked up a BBQ meal then Wal and Bob called in to visit Max Meth who lent us a couple of maps and spare tags in case we needed them while on the Nullarbor.

 

2nd April

We left Ceduna about 8.30am and arrived in Nundroo in time to consume the fresh Ceduna pastries at 10.30 and then arrived dv00013.jpgat the Nullarbor Roadhouse at 12.30pm and awaited the “Nullacruiser” of Max Hall. Max arrived with Kristy, who was en route to Adelaide to continue her tourist exploits to the Red Centre. Later James arrived. Max and Clark took to the skies above the Nullarbor for a one ½ hour flight to spot a few more caves for us to visit over the next few days. James’ car would not start so the engineers among the group got to work and eventually found a way to start the car. James was not the only one to have trouble. The late “Possum” Bourne’s Subaru racing team had to remove a wheel bearing from their trailer and so a couple of hours later they to, managed to find a solution to their problem and headed east to Ceduna to acquire new trailer bearings.

We eventually left the roadhouse at 5pm and headed SW to Gilgerabbie hut for some protection from the very strong SE winds. We dined, chatted and rugged up before heading to bury our heads in our pillows at 10pm.

 

3rd April

Awakening to a cloudy, cool and windy morning at 7.30am we relaxed, chatted and decided what to do during the day. Later, we headed north to find 5N121. Bob remembered coming here with Max Meth on a trip in 1997 to locate it at that time. Anyway, Wal who was new to Nullarbor caving and the enthusiastic one of the bunch, entered the cave with Kristy and Max. While in the cave, Ranger Brett Dalzell arrived at 5N121 to meet us. He later went to get the key for the hut and we enjoyed the warmth of it later in the evening.

Next we ventured to 5N125 to relocate and GPS it.

After lunch at the hut, where we kept out of the 40kmph winds, we went via the coastline to a cave Max spotted years ago from the air to locate it. It was tagged 5N2351 but only went for 1m. We returned to the hut to a great dinner and bed about 9pm.

 

4th April

We packed up and left the hut about 9am and headed for 5N117, a cave entered in October 1965 by ISS member and is known as Skull Blowhole cave. We parked at the same spot as did the 1965 expedition did, entered and surveyed it. We then travelled to campsite two, arriving at 5pm. Wal, Kristy, James and Max walked west about 2 kilometres to see if they could locate a feature that Max had seen from the air. They found the feature and Wal did a quick reconnoitre of the cave, while James, Kristy and Max watched the sunset before they all walked back in the dark to camp.

Ranger Brett lit a fire and we enjoyed a baked dinner, apple crumble, wine, port, chocolate and popcorn before heading of to bed at 10.45pm.

 

5th April

We rose about 7.30am (the moose was missing this year!) and split into two groups - Brett, Max, Kristy and James went north in the ranger’s vehicle while the Scobies, Wal and Bob headed to 5N2352 and surveyed it for a couple of hours then headed out for lunch and cameras. After lunch they returned to where the cave ended in a gypsum area with fine formations. In the meantime, Kristy, James and Brett had located several features previously seen from the air and James spotted a new unknown feature, they then returned to camp, packed up and left to pursue other things. Max came over and joined with everyone else at 5N2352

 

We exited about 4.30pm and returned to camp after a 2.9km walk. A quick wash, nibbles and Wal excelled with pancakes and a tomato and beef inserts to the pancakes. After examining the great starry skies we headed off to bed about 9.30pm.

 

6th April

A dewy morning. We drove 1km away to examine and survey the following caves:

printscopy.jpg5N2353 - a cave with Aboriginal hand prints.

5N2354 - a small cave that went down and around

5N2355 - a small cave through a boulder collapse

5N2356 - a large collapse but only with a small lead that didn’t go anywhere.

 

We returned to camp about 5pm and had a great baked dinner by the fire. A strong SE sea breeze -“The Nullarbor Doctor” came up and cooled the camp and surrounding area.

Lightening was observed to the south and west and slowly moving east - toward us! The storm approached about 1am and Andrew and Bob had a conversation as to retreat to cars if the lightening came across the camp site - Wal who was sleeping out most nights rearranged the interior of his car and slept in it just in case of a deluge. Fortunately, the storm split and headed north and south of the camp but the rain fell from 2am to 4am giving about 5mm overall.

 

7th April

We arose about 7.30am to a warm morning. We left the camp about 9.20am and travelled north to examine two small caves - 5N2357 and 5N2358 and we walked a triangle of 2.5kms. Then we walked to a blowhole -5N2359- with a small interior full of animal bones. Wal had contracted Lloyd’s disease and commenced a dig but it didn’t go anywhere - maybe next time Wal! En route home we walked 1.2km to a blowhole but found it went down ‘80 foot’! We used a 30-foot ladder and 5m tape but ran out of equipment. It was tagged 5N2360.

We returned to the cars at 5pm and the camp 5.30pm.

Another great baked meal and loaf of bread. The rain at 9pm sent everyone to bed but it stopped soon after.

 

8th April

Arose at 7.30 and left at 9.30am and returned to 5N2360. It turned out to be a 13m pitch! Wal, Max and Andrew descended it but it didn’t go anywhere! After lunch we walked 2km to a doline with five blowholes - 5N2361 - Quinn Holes! An easy climb down and a quick survey and we returned to camp about 4pm. The group relaxed at camp while Max went off in search of more holes in the ground.

Shepherd’s Pie, pudding and bed about 10pm after a great campfire.

 

9th April

We packed up and left camp at 10am and headed to the Nullarbor Roadhouse for a shower and a bit of laundry duty, a steak sandwich and ice cream. Max, Clark and Wal went on a 1 ½ hour flight over the area again (!) and spotted another two new features reasonably near a track and at 3.30 we headed to the Ivy Tank area. 12kms east of the old motel we camped beside the old Eyre Highway. While drying out the laundry, Wal and Max went for a walk north to find a cave - but to no avail. We turned in about 10pm.

 

10th April

We awoke to a foggy morning and we left for a walk about 10am around and around in circles waving off swarms of March flies trying to find 5N2362. Eventually, Max located the feature - a few metres from where he and Wal walked the previous evening. It was a small collapsed doline. We returned to camp packed up and left about 2.30pm and while seeking refuge in our cars from the march flies we headed west and found 5N2363 - a collapse with more hand prints. We drove a bit further and camped. We were all exhausted from a day of hand waving attempting to keep the march flies at bay. A few sprinkles of rain at 9pm.

 

11th April

Another foggy morning with no wind. It turned out to be a hot day with NW winds and lots of small flies. (I heard on the ABC radio on the way home to Wollongong later in the month that an area in SA had sold more than 4000 fly nets over the Easter Weekend to Tourists and that the NT had the worst grasshopper plague in years especially around the Timber Creek area). Anyway, we visited 5N2364 then drove to camp five and walked to what we tagged 5N2365 but later re-tagged 5N247 and 5N253 (a known cave) a blowhole that collects water from a vast pavement. Andrew and Wal returned after dinner to venture down the hole to see if they could find the Troglodiplura lowryi Spider with it’s large fangs. They only found a few skeletons or husks.

We visited another large 40m x 50m collapse and then returned to camp. Max had another feature 4kms away for us to visit the next day.

 

12th April

A hot night and a relaxing morning then a cold change came through with cooling gusty SW winds. In the afternoon we went west and visited a pavement area and a small blowhole 5N2366. Then to a small hole, 5N2367 and then 5N2368 (which was a known cave 5N246). We visited and tagged 5N247.

 

We returned to camp for pumpkin soup and made a satellite phone call to Brett to obtain permission to drive to the cave 4kms away as there were no natural anchors to use to enter the blowhole. At this point we discussed the use of wind generators such as those on yachts to charge batteries as the wind blew during most of the nights so far on the trip.

 

13th April

We drove to the blowhole and tagged it 5N2365. Unfortunately the cave was only a ballroom and there were no leads. So we returned to camp, packed up, fixed a leaking tyre on Andrew’s car and headed to the Nullarbor Roadhouse via 5N2369 and 5N2370, the two new features that had been spotted a few days earlier from the plane. We had a great dinner at the Roadhouse restaurant before saying farewell to Wal at 9pm, who was heading to Adelaide and Melbourne for work and scouting activities.

We then drove 31kms to camp 7 arriving at midnight and setting up camp and bed at 12.15am to the dingoes howling in the distance.

 

14th April

A late start at 8am and we fixed another tyre on Andrew’s car. An early lunch and off to 5N2371 and large cave but no leads. Then to 5N2372 - A cave that had dog fence wire used as a climbing aid going down the blowhole. Andrew, Max and Bob used a ladder! At the bottom we found quite a few formations and a rock cairn that looked like a grave. Andrew started a dig to find bones but probably didn’t dig deep enough! We returned to camp via the 5N254 doline and a great meal cooked by Max.

 

15th April

Left at 10am and we went for a 2.3km walk to a “nothing” pavement, 5N2373. Later, Andrew, Clarke, Max and Bob walked to Gemini 2 (second pair of blowholes) 5N2374. It only had a depth of 7m and didn’t go anywhere. We continued our drive passed an old chimmney stack and made camp at 5.30pm on a big flat area.

 

16th April

At 7.30am and drove east looking for a sinkhole marked on the topographic map but it turned out to be a small doline. So we headed west and still didn’t find anything of significance. A small doline and cave, 5N2376 - 500m north of the camp kept us amused for 20 minutes.

After lunch, Max on his bike and Clarke and Bob went to look for Wal’s geographically misplaced GPS but we were distracted by three small caves/dolines we found and tagged, 5N2377, 5N2378 and 5N2379. We didn’t find the GPS and returned to camp at 6pm after covering another 60kms of the Nullarbor. A great baked dinner was waiting for us and we did find that camp two was covered in grasshoppers.

 

bg105a.jpg17th April

Up at 7am, we left the camp at 9am and arrived at the Nullarbor Roadhouse about 10am and left at 1130am after Max did a bit of soldering on a joint on his GPS fitting. We arrived at a campsite at 5.30pm on the road to Reid after collecting a bit of timber near Warbla Cave. A great moon rise and sunset. A late night to bed at 22.45.

 

 

18th April

Max left on his bike at 930am to look at potential caves 13km to the northeast of the camp, (especially the hole shown in the photo at left). He returned rather despondent as none of the dolines were worth looking at. So we decided to pack up and head for Weebubbie cave area and stay there for the night and have a swim. We arrived at the site at 5.30pm and Andrew and Clark baked some fresh bread for tomorrow’s lunch.

This was the first camp among the trees for 18 days and it was different - there was no uninterrupted horizon and plenty of crickets.

 

19th April

swimcopy.jpgA relaxing morning! Andrew, Max and Bob went into the cave, took a few photographs and enjoyed a refreshing swim in the waters. Later in the afternoon the Pilot from the Nullarbor, Fiona and the waitress, Kiri came to the area with Doug, a starling control operator. Andrew and Max took Clark, Alison, Caitlyn, Fiona and Kiri into the cave and enjoyed a quick swim in the cool waters.

 

20th April

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Up early to find the Easter Bilby eggs left early in the morning and to talk to Macca! Wal had arranged a telephone number to phone a couple of days after he left us, and then a message on the satellite phone message bank. So Bob rang Macca and had a 5 minute discussion about the ISS 40th Anniversary and caving in general. We packed up and left at 10am and headed to Eucla. Morning tea and the Scobies left to return east at noon and Max and Bob turned left and headed to an area north of the Mundrabilla property. We made a camp when the track petered out next to an old Chevy Master. Here we had great sunset shots and watched 6 satellites and 3 shooting stars cross the skies between 7.30pm and 8.30pm. A strong NE wind came up at sunset and blew the flies away.

 

21st April

While Max scoured the countryside 10kms to the north for a large “mythical cave”, I repaired a small puncture in a tyre spiked the night before, then typed the body of this report on the laptop in the comfort of the Forester under the shade of a seldom seen (in these parts) large Myall tree with the air conditioning going, to 2ndlastcamp.jpgkeep away from the pesky flies while a strong breeze blew in from the North East. Max returned having covered over 100kms and no new “massive” caves or others worth returning to examine. So we packed up and returned east toward Mundrabilla to examine a couple of caves tomorrow. We arrived at the campsite and set up our cameras and photographed a few star trails while looking for satellites (only 2 tonight) and “shooting stars”(3).

 

22nd April

Max left to examine the cave about 4.5kms away about 9.30am and returned about 10am reporting of a hole about 1m round and 1m deep. So we packed up and headed further southeast for one look at a possible new cave. Unfortunately, they were two small round holes 1 m round and 0.5m deep. So we headed to Mundrabilla Roadhouse for a steak sandwich before sunset0138copy.jpggilhutcmapcopy.jpgsaying farewell to each other and heading our respective directions for a long drive home after a leisurely and reasonably fruitful 2003 expedition to the Nullarbor!

I arrived at the Gilgerabbie Hut for the night and continued to type this report in between looking at fantastic crimson and orange colours among the cirrus clouds during sunset over the hut and taking a few photographs.

 

shadowcopy.jpgI (Bob) must admit that I miss my young shadow and her quiet chatter and inquisitive “What ya doing?” and “What’s that?” but it is quiet just listening to the wind blowing through the leaves of the bushes.

 

23rd April

Bob left the Nullarbor Roadhouse just after 8am and had a great drive to Ceduna in the cool of the morning. Stopping off for a meat pie and a fresh loaf of bread before calling briefly in on Max Meth and a refuelling stop before venturing to Port Augusta for the night (arriving at 5.30pm). I booked in at the same motel as Clark and we had a great meal at the motel’s restaurant with him before a cup of tea/milo and heading off to catch up on the cricket and a “real” bed.

 

24th April

Bob travelled from Port Augusta (departing 7am CST) to Hay (arriving 5.15pm EST).

Unbeknown to each other the Scobies were in the pub and Bob was in the motel across the road!

 

25th April

Bob left Hay at 7.30am and arrived in Wollongong at 4.30pm travelling in the heavy rain from Goulburn to Wollongong.

 

Things we had and should take next time:

a 12v electric drill for making wooden tyres for children’s bikes

a gas soldering iron

a 12v tyre air compressor

lots of food both fresh and tinned

A 12v/240v inverter for computers and recharging batteries and discharging car batteries!

Tyre plugs

 

Things we didn’t have and should take next time!!!! 

 A large mosquito net to cover us during lunch times

 

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